Чертежи каравеллы "«Ни́нья»"

Nina was a classic caravel with pure latin rigging, with hanging sails in the middle point of the lateen yard and with shrouds hooked to ship's broadside. It had no forecastle and it had a small quarter-deck. Christopher Columbus, S. Mary's captain in the first historical expedition, took the next Atlantic passage with Nina, which had a particularly strong construction, but with reduced length (a little shorter than 20 meters) at the mercy of the waves.

FIG. 1

Cover all the deck using tanganyka strips 0,5x3mm (#2), making sure not to cover holes for the masts on the hull. In order to create the most realistic hull we recommend cutting tanganyka strips in pieces of 15mm gluing them to the hull with white glue.

FIG. 2

Make the keel for the prow out of strip 1x10 mm (#3), cut in three parts as shown in the drawing. Insert in hollow of the hull the three strips gluing them in place. Then trim excess with fine­grained sandpaper following the line of prow and reducing the extension to only 3mm (see fig. 5). Make the center keel out of strip 1x4mm. Fit and glue as shown in the drawing. Put off con­struction of the poop keel and rudder (#5 and #6) until later because we haven't a rest yet. We recommend laying the model on a place of foam rubber. Continue to complete works shown on fig. 3, as follows: fill up the empty space which is created between the keel #4 and the rudder #6 with a strip of 1x10 mm (#5) which will look like a little triangle. Make the poop keel and the rudder out of two pieces of strips 1x10 mm. Mount them at distance of 1 mm and attach them with 2 temporary 1x2mm stri­ps (#16). Glue shamhings made from small rope from both sides as drawing. Cut out the rudder and the keel following the dotted line and glue them in the correct location on the poop.

FIG. 3

Sand the hull #1 using fine-grained sandpaper. Make bulwarks #7 and #8 out of strip 1x10 mm (both sides) following measure­ments taken from the hull laying the lower part of strip on exi­stent step on the hull. Use instant glue. Make holes for cannons and for rope anchor, shown on points #9. Glue to edges of bulwarks #7 on outer side two strips 1x1 mm (#10), see also detail #11. Glue both sides on ship's side #8 a strip 1x5mm (#12). Glue to edges of bulwarks #8 on outer side two strips 1x1 mm (#10). See detail #13. Glue two strips 1x4mm (#14) on transom of hull. Make upright fenders #15 out of strip 1x2x16mm, and glue them in positions as shown in drawing. Glue two strips 1x2mm (#19) to sides of little ladder #18. Lean and glue the ladder in the right position as shown in fig. 4. Make the door #20 out of strip 1x10x8mm and glue it in right position as shown in fig. 4. Poop railings: make five little pillars #21 out of strip 1,5x1,5x9mm and glue them in position on quarter-deck as shown. Glue on outer side of little pillars horizontal breast band #22 made out of strip 1x1 mm. Now glue 11 little upright pillars equidistant from them (#23) to the inside of breast bands. See fig. 5. At the end glue handrail (#24) made out of strip 1x2mm as shown in fig. 25. Establish the correct position of the water line, from the drawing. Mark the correct location on the hull with a pencil on both sides. To obtain the perfect waterline around the hull, hold the pencil in place and move the hull hori­zontally across the pencil point. Make the poop shelf #38 out of strip 1x10 mm as shown in the drawing and glue it on the tran­som to support the yard #39 made out of rod diam. 2 which is glued on the poop shelf.

FIG. 4

Glue a strip of 1x1 mm on the deck around and against bulwarks (see fig. z). The stand for life-boat: glue, following the drawing, 4 strips (#26) 1,5x1,5mm of the length described on the deck. Then glue strips 0,5x3mm (#27). At the end glue outline #28 made out of strip 1x1 mm. Make two bollards #29 out of strip 1x1 mm and glue in shown points. Make some holes 0,7 mm deep about 4mm in right positions marked with X. Insert in holes little brass rings with stem. (#30), fixing them with a little white glue. Make some holes 0,7 mm, deep 4mm as right points with X. Cut stems of rings #31 in order to jut out only button­hole; Before that glue metal parts (life-boat, cannons ect.) on model, paint them referring to the photo on cover. Glue into posi­tions the capstan #32, cannons #33, gratings #35 and anchor #36 and archor's rope must pass through the opening #9 on ship's right side (fig. 3), then through the prow's little ring #31 and at the end fix it to the capstan #32. Glue the life-boat on its stand bending it to 4 little short rings #34 already fixed. Insert in 4 holes of two belaying pins. Attach with instant glue the plaque to 3/4 length of pin as per drawing. Fix them to the deck at points shown.

FIG. 5

Take measures of masts and yards (fig. 5). Taper masts #45/46/47 following the indication of outlining. Make some holes diam. 0,7mm in right points #40. Bend and glue yards #42 and #43 with each other as per plan #41. Make some rings from rope #44 attached to yards #42/43/48 in order to pass sliding rigging to raise or lower sails. Bend at the bottom of three yards #42/43/48 two little brass rings #49 as per drawing. Paint masts and yards with walnut color.

FIG. 6

Sails: wet cloth, then dry and iron it. Fix to window the drawing of sails #50/51/52, then attach cloth. First draw sails by tracing their shapes. Then, with a pencil, trace lines as per drawing. Cover a piece of wood with plastic material. Fix the sails with pins to this piece. Connect the pins with a fine string. Glue the strings with a fine brush and watered-down cement onto the sails (fig. 7). Let it dry, then cut out complete sails and attach them. Paint the sail's center cross with flat red color (#50).

FIG. 8

Fix masts #45/46/48 in holes on the deck of hull following the angles shown on drawing. Make shrouds twisting two yarns of little rope with watered down white glue to make a plait. (see detail 54). Stretch three masts shrouds coming from point 55 and fix them to little rings #30 on both sides. Glue breast bands made out of strip 1x1 mm into the correct position over shrouds fig. 56. Attach sails to yards following plan 53 after fixing yards to the masts (#45) with little rope which is from point N, pass through the hole 0 of mast and fixed to ring P on the deck. Fix the yard #43 to the mast #46 with the little rope which is from point Q, passed through the hole of mast R and fixed to the ring F on the deck. Fix the yard #55 to the mast #48 with the little rope which is from point S, passed through the hole of mast T and fixed to the ring I on the deck. Manoeuvres for changes of direction of yards: yard 42 - a little rope attached to point B goes to point C.and returns back to the point B and fix attaching to the cleat #29. Double manoeuvre right and left: yard 43 - a lit­tle rope attached to point D goes to point E, returns back to the point D and fix attaching to the little rope F and to the belaying pin 37/1. Double manoeuvre right and left: yard 48 - a little rope attached to point G, goes to point H, returns back to the point G and fix attaching to the little rope I and returns back the belaying pin 37/2. Attach to the end of poop yard L a little rope which goes from point M, returns back L and fix to the little rope I. Flags: put three flags #57/58/59 included in the box on the top of masts shaping them as drawing.

FIG. Z

Make the stand for the boat from strip 10x2 forming 4 trapeziums that shall be placed one upon the other and glued to each other two by two following the hatched line (see fig. Z). The figure is in actual size, therefore the realization is easy. Glue and fasten with a small nail the rod No. 3 (8 mm. diameter) to the base of the supports, in the point indicated by the circle.

NINA

Columbus Caravel

On 12th October 1492 Christopher Columbus, in the service of Spain, set the royal flag on an island of a completely unknown world to Europe.

This extraordinary adventure was due to the strong perseverance of a foreigner haunted by the conviction that the Atlantic Ocean was but a sea, narrow enough to be crossed in a few days on a boat.

Christopher Columbus, son of a Genoan weaver, had been thinking about this project for fifteen years and then spent eight years of his life looking for someone who could accept it.

The report of his triumph lives through two documents of the time: one is the caravel's log-book and the other is the touching biography of Christopher Columbus, written by his son Ferdinando.

Preparations for leaving started in May in Palos, the city of Pinzon and Nino. Infact these two families supplied the enterprise with the two famous caravels: Pinta and Nina. The third was chartered by Juan de la Cosa.

Columbus took the command of his small fleet and at the dawn of August 3rd weighed anchor, leaving South towards the Canary Islands.

Navigation was not at all easy: "Here people cannot stand it any more and complain over the length of the journey" noted Las Casas.

The fleet had been at sea for 34 days and was still sailing, hopelessly, towards an unknown destination.

"If the Captain won't decide to sail back home, we'll throw him into the sea and, once back in Spain, we'll tell everybody that he fell overboards accidentally. Nobody will argue with that", wrote Ferdinando.

Around 10p.m. on October 11th Columbus noticed a dim light. Nothing was told to the sailors and they didn't notice anything. Four hours passed. Then around 2a.m. a sailor on the Pinta perceived the coast of an island, lit by the moon.

Columbus was right! After 36 days at sea and a voyage of 2.400 miles, he landed, exactly as he had promised. Even so he had not reached the Indies. Columbus arrived at Watlings Islands in the Bahamas, 9.000 miles away from them.

FIG. 1 - 2

Prepare joints on tips of parts from 2 to 7, as shown in Fig. 2, in this way they'll be easily removed after having applied bulwark planking.

Glue frames from 2 to 11 onto keel 1, be careful to position frames perpendicular to the keel and parallel to one another (except frame 11 which should be slanting).

FIG. 3

Glue parts 12 and 13 onto frames 2 and onto the kill, as shown. They'll be useful while applying planking at stem.

FIG. 4

Apply block 14 flush to stern frame 11. Use a strip to check correct shape of the hull, shape edges of frames at stem and at stern, following hull outline, in this way you'll easily apply planking. Tape ends of parts 12 and 13 at stem, take off corners.

FIG. 5

Plank sternboard 15 with strips 15, position them as shown in figure.

Note the different directions of planking between frame and stern block.

FIG. 6

Plank quarterdeck 16 with strips 17.

On quarterdeck drill holes for masts. Glue the deck onto the hull (frames from 8 to 11), drill the hole for small mast deeply in part 14 (do not drill through completely).

FIG. 7

Cover outsides of frame tips from 2 to 7 with adhesive tape. This will help removing tips later on, since they won't stick to the rest.

Plank hull with strips 18. It is advisable to start from main deck going down wards, and finish planking over main deck line.

Some small nails will help gluing. We suggest use of special tool Amati Pin Pusher (art. 7384), designed to ease nailing strips to frames.

Let the glue dry completely, then sand the hull using thin sand paper.

Strips for side quarterdeck planking should be shaped following drawings on Table 1, carefully.

For this operation you can use a very thin fret saw blade. Be careful not to spoil strips of planking.

FIG. 8

Prepare rudder 19, gluing together 2 pre-cut mm. 2 pieces. Apply tiller 21. Drill holes to fix rings 69 and 70 on stempost and on rudder. Apply eyebolts with rings onto stern and only one eyebolt, without ring, on rudder. Now glue rudder to stempost using hinges 20. Sling rudder as shown in Figure, using a piece of rope 71.

FIG. 9 -10

Use a pair of tweezers to take off frame tips, be careful not to spoil bulwark planking. Sand upper edges of frames.

FIG. 11

Plank upper deck 22 with strips 23. On deck make holes for mast and for anchor rope wells. Glue the deck onto the hull.

FIG. 12-13

Cover quarterdeck bulkhead with strips 24.

On deck apply stringers 25, positioning two mm.1x1 strips, one near the other, all along bulwarks inside, apply poppets 26 leaning them on stringers. The last stem poppets should be shorter than the other of about mm.2, in order to allow positioning of board 28 (Fig.13).

Use a flat file to prepare seat to sling anchors on bulwarks.

Following instructions given in Table 1 position strips 27, gluing them on poppets.

Apply upper deck gunwales 29 and 30 leaning them against stempost and flush with poppets 26. In this way gunwales will stick out the hull.

Apply pre-shaped stringers 35 and 36 and cross bars 37 and 38 onto quarterdeck edges. The two side stringers 35 and 36 should stick out the hull as gunwales do.

FIG. 14 -15 -16

Apply wales 31 and 32 along bulwarks. Then glue 33, following gunnels towards stem.

Check exact positioning following details on lateral view on Table 1.

Now apply vertical fenders 34 (first layer) between gunwales and wales 32 and between wales 32 and wales 31. Now continue applying second layer of strip 34. Now all gunwales, wales and fenders should be on the same level. Apply the third layer of strips 34, all together.

When glue is completely dry shape fenders with sandpaper, as shown in Fig. 16.

Drill holes for cannons and then sand them with thin sandpaper.

For this operation it is advisable to position a cannon on deck and check exact height of barrel. The barrel should be right in the middle of the hole You are going to drill on bulwark.

FIG. 17 -18

On main deck gunwales apply decoration arches 39. These parts are made of two wooden pieces of mm.2, joined together, sanded and glued. The decorations cover planking strips, which had been cut before (Fig. 7).

FIG. 19

Apply decoration 40 for the door on covering of quarterdeck bulkhead. Complete the door, add handle 4l and hinges 42. To make handle bend the head of an eyebolt, then insert shank into bulkhead. Prepare windows cutting decorations 44 the right size. Shape nets 43 inside windows, then glue the whole onto bulkhead and add shelves 45. Prepare quarterdeck banister firstly by applying columns 46 on strips 35, 36, 37, 38. Be careful to columns inclination on each single portion of quarterdeck. Check drawings in scale 1:1 on Table 1 (side and stern view).

Let the glue dry well. Then on columns apply handrails 47-48 (already shaped) and 49-50 (make them from a mm.2x4 strip). Handrail 49 must be positioned as shown in Fig. 19.

FIG. 20-21

Prepare hatchway making beams 51 with strip mm. 2x2. Make lateral frames 52 with strip mm. 1x4, apply the longer ones straight onto beams 51. Assemble the whole, forming a frame. Position hatches 53 (made from strip mm. 1x4) directly on beams 51.

On hatches 53 drill holes for handles. Then position handles which are made of piece 54 and 55 (eyebolts and rings).

Now apply hatchway on the deck following view on Table 1.

FIG. 22

Prepare both gratings 56, following instructions given in figure. Check correct measures on Table 1. Frames 57are made from mm. 1x4 strip. Position gratings on main deck and on quarterdeck.

FIG. 23

Make bitts 58 and pin rack (only crossing part) 59 using a mm. 3x3 strip. Shape bitts 58 with a file, as shown in figure, make joints for cross bar 59, which should be fixed in for half its thickness. Correct dimensions can be find in drawing on Table 1.

Now apply this part onto main deck as shown in view.

FIG. 24

Make front support 73 for lifeboat, take exact measures from view on Table 1. Then apply this part onto deck. Make holes for eyebolts near hatchway and next to lifeboat support. Insert eyebolt 74 and finish them with rings 75.

Paint lifeboats natural wood, then position it upside down on hatchway and on support 73. Tie it with rope 76 as shown in figure.

DECK FITTINGS AND HULL FINISHING

(See Fig. 2 and 3 on Table 1)

Before applying all fittings on decks it is advisable to finish and color the hull completely. At stem, on bulwark, drill holes for anchors' ropes. Glue hawse holes 63 on the outside. Now you can color the hull with a transparent matt varnish. Wales and fenders can be a little bit darker than hull planking.

Prepare windlass 60 and then apply it onto the deck.

Glue also parts 62 round holes for anchor ropes, on deck.

Wind rope 6l around windlass, insert one end into deck holes and the other end, much longer, into hawse hole on bulwarks. Both ends should be then tied to anchor rings. Position anchors on gunwale, tie them with a piece of thin rope, through holes you've made before. Prepare staircase 66, verify dimension on plan.

Then apply it on deck.

Mount cannons 67, barrel and carriage, and apply them on deck in front openings an bulwark.

Position heel 89 on main deck, round hole for mast, do not glue it. In this way you can now glue pump 68 near mast heel.

On decks drill all holes for eyebolts and rings 94-95.

Check plans. These rings will be useful for riggings, use few drops of cyanoacrylate to fix them firmly.

MASTING (TABLE 2)

Prepare masts following technical plans in scale 1:1. Taper dowels for masts and yards from No. 80 to No. 88. Follow drawings in scale 1:1.

MASTS

Firstly make parts 77-78-79 from a mm. 6x6 strips. Follow figure in detail. Drill holes where yard riggings will run through and in which there will be inserted pivots, in order to fix riggings to masts. Cover main mast 80 with strips 93 mm. 1x3. This will act as reinforcements for lower part of mast. Sand and round edges.

Now on top of main mast apply part 77. Let glue dry well and then position rod 81. On top of part 77 make a hole to fix the rod securely, otherwise you can join rod, part 77 and mast with a little metal pin. Position main mast on deck, check correct inclination and insertion. Glue mast heel onto deck and then glue main mast.

Follow these same instructions for mizzenmast 82, rod 83 and part 78, the only difference being that lower part of mizzen mast is not planked. Assemble pole 84 with its part 79 (smaller). Now on deck glue mizzen mast with heel 89, and rod with heel 90.

YARDS

Sand larger ends of spars 85 (2 pieces) and 86 (2 pieces), so that they join smoothly. Glue parts of spars together and then make bindings (use rope 102). Apply parrels (parts 100 and rope 101) onto spars 85-86-87, in order to fix masts. Rope 101 should be long enough to make bindings easily. Apply blocks 96 on yards, tie them with rope 101. Apply outrigger 88, shaping its seat on part 38. Apply also mast steps 91 and 92.

SAILS

Cu printed cloth sails 103 and fold borders inwards, then sew them to the inner side, using thin thread or you can also use cyanoacrylate. Reinforce all sail corners by sewing them, you can also apply some small pieces of cloth. See side view on Table 1. Make holes in order to fix sails to yards and apply rope rings 102 on corners.

Lace sails to spars with rope 101, then position the whole onto masts.

RIGGINGS

Figures from 25 to 33 show all riggings. Each number in a square corresponds to a type of rigging:. Consult the list of riggings to check wether each rigging is single or double (left=sx right=dx). In figures 32 and 33 the same numbers indicate where rigging will be tied (number plus letter A) and the beginning point (number).

On lateen yard begin with inner riggings and then make the other riggings.

Fig. 30 shows how to make shrouds using triangular deadeyes 99- Fig. 31 shows how to tie the davit of the main mast halyard.

FLAGS

Cut flags from the given adhesive cloth, use a scalpel. All along line of bending cut protective paper. Take off only half paper film. Position a piece of rope 101 all along bending line, in order to tie flag to the pole. Take off the other part of the paper film and bend flag carefully on itself. Apply flags onto mast poles.

You can finally buy a hard wooden base and two turned columns to show your model.

Now your model is finished. Show it proudly, it is your creation.

Please note that the following points are marked with a! on the instruction photographic booklet.

Step 1

Check joints on frames. If necessary enlarge joints using a file on both sides.

Step 4

Sand frame edges towards bow and stern.

Step 5

Sand edges of bow shim elements.

Step 6

Drill holes on deck (refer to 1:1 scale drawing on Table 1).

Step 7

Apply first planking using basswood strips (18) 1x3 mm.

Step 9

Apply second planking using walnut strips (15) 0.5x3 mm.

Step 10

Round planking using a thin file and sandpaper (refer to 1:1 scale drawing on Table 1)

Step 11

At stern drill a hole for rudder tiller insertion. Use fie and sandpaper.

Step 12-13

Remove all frame tips using small tweezers. Smooth frames with sandpaper.

Step 14

Drill holes on deck (refer to 1:1 scale drawing on Table 1).

Step 15

Prepare model support using two pieces of wooden dowels 6 mm. and all laser cut parts.

Step 16

Make seats for anchor ropes running. Use a flat nose file.

Step 21

Drill holes on deck. On bulwark drill holes for cannons (refer to 1:1 drawing on Table 1).

Step 24

Position second strip 34, smooth with sandpaper. Apply third strip 34 and smooth again with sandpaper.

Step 26

Make joints for rudder tiller insertion, Use a file

Step 29

Sand bases of all columns 29 and position them on deck perpendicular to the deck.

Step 38

Round edges of anchor pin in order to insert anchor in its stock easily,

Step 41

Drill running through holes 77-78 and hole 79. then complete these parts.