Чертежи каравеллы "Пинта"

Third ship of Columbu's expedition, Pinta was a square sails caravel. The sails consisted of a square foresail and a great mainsail, while the mizzenmast, supported a long yard for lateen triangular sail. It had a poop quarterdeck and, unlike the sistership Nina, also forecastle. The Pinta was the fastest of the three ships, conferming the logbooks, which indicated that this caravel was during the voyage often ahead of the two other ships.

FIG. 1

Cover all the deck using tanganyka strips 0,5x3mm (#2), making sure not to cover holes of the masts on the hull. In order to create the most realistic hull we recommend cutting tanganyka strips in pieces of 15mm gluing them to the hull with white glue.

FIG. 2

Make the keel for the prow out of strip 1,5x10 mm (#3), cut in three parts as shown in the drawing. Insert in hollow of the hull the three strips gluing them in place. Then trimm excess with fine-grained sandpaper following the line of prow and reducing the extension to only 3mm (see fig. 2). Make he center keel out of strip 1,5x4mm. Fit and glue as shown in the drawing. Put off construction of the poop keel and rudder (#5 and #6) until later because we haven't a rest yet. We recommend laying the model on a place of foam rubber. Continue to complete works shown on fig. 2, as follows: fill up the empty space which is created between the keel #4 and the rudder #6 with a strip 1,5x10mm (#5) which will look ike a little triangle. Make the poop keel and the rudder out of two pieces of strips 1,5x10 mm. Mount them at a distance of 1 mm and attach them with 2 tem­porary 1x2mm strips (#7). Glue shamhings made from sail rope from both sides as drawing. Cut out the rudder and the keel fol­lowing the dotted line and glue them in the correct location of the poop.

FIG. 3 AND 4

Sand the hull #1 using fine-grained sandpaper. Make bulwarks #9 and #10 out of strip 1x10 mm (both sides) following measure­ments taken from the hull laying the lower part of strip on exi­stent step on the hull. Use instant glue. Make holes for cannons and for a rope anchor, shown on points #11. Glue to edges of bulwarks #9 on outer side two strips 1x1 mm (#12), see also detail #13. Glue both sides on ships's side #10 a strip 1x5mm (#14). Glue to edges of bulwarks #10 on outer side two strips 1x1 mm (#12). See detail #15. Glue five strips 0,5x3mm (#16) on transom of hull. Make upright fenders #17 out of strip 1x2mm, and glue them in positions as shown in drawing. Glue two strips 1x2mm (#19) to sides of little ladder #18. Lean and glue the ladder in the right position as shown in fig. 4. Make the door #20 out of strip 1x10x8mm and glue it in right position as shown in fig. 4. Poop railings: make six little pillars #21, fig. 3 out of strip 1,5x1, 5x9mm and glue them in position on quarter­deck as shown. Glue on outer side of little pillars horizontal breast band #22 made out of strip 1x1 mm. Now glue 12 little upright pillars equidistant from them (#23) to the inside of breast bands. See fig. 4 At the end glue handrail (#24) made out of strip 1x1 mm as shown in fig. 25.

Forecastle: glue piece #26 (made out of strip 1x5mm) on han­drail to prow and against the protrusion of keel. Make handrail supports of forecastle (#27) out of two strips 1x1 mm, glue them together as per fig. 3 (one long, leaned against deck, one short leaned against strip #26), glue onto handrail supports (one for each side) #28, made out of strip 1x2mm. Make three little upri­ght pillars (for each side) #23 and glue them between #26 and #28. Make a hole of 2 mm diameter (#30) in the middle of the 3rd strip of the transom through which the 2mm boom #54 sli­des. Make the triangular console #29 by using the 1x10 mm strip. Place and glue it below the hole of the prow #30. Make chainwales #31 by using 1x4mm strip as shown on drawing and glue them between the two last prow fenders on both sides. Establish the correct position of the water line from the drawing. Mark the correct location on the hull with a pencil on both sides. To obtain the perfect waterline around the hull, hold the pencil in place and move the hull horizontally across the pencil point.

FIG. 5

Glue a strip of 1x1 mm on the deck around and against bulwarks (see fig. Z). The stand for life-boat: glue, following the drawing, 4 strips (#32) of the length described on the deck. Then glue strips 0,5x3mm (#33). At the end glue outline #34 made out of strip 1x1 mm. Before glue deck's superstructures, paint accor­ding to colour list n. 66 fig. 8. Glue into positions the capstan #40, cannons #35, gratings #36 and the anchor #37 and anchor's rope must pass through the opening 11 on ship's right side, then through the little ring #38 at the end fix it to the capstan #40. Make some holes 0,7mm deep about 4mm in right positions marked with (0). Insert in holes little brass rings with stem #38, cut stems of rings in order to jut out only button-hole. Glue the life-boat #39 on its stand bending it to 4 little short rings #38 already fixed. Belaying pins: insert in 4 holes of three balaying pins XWK accordingly. Attach with instant glue the pla­ques #41 to 3/4 length of pin as per drawing. Fix them to the deck at points shown. Make under chain-wales #31 4 deep holes 4mm and put the little ring with stem attaching them yet against chain-wales (see fig. 8).

FIG. 6

Take measures of masts and yards (fig. 6). Taper masts #42/43 and 44 following the indication of outlining. Make some holes diam. 0,7mm in right points #45 in masts 42/43/44. Bend with twisted little rope as detail #46 fig. 8 the bottom of three masts fig. 6. Bend and glue yards #47 and #48 with each other as per plan fig. 6. To the yard #48 we must bend some brass little rings #49 and 50 as plan fig. 6. Make out of rod diam. 2 yards #51/52/53 and boom #54. Make out of rod diam. 3 mm the bowsprit #55. Paint masts and yards with walnut colour.

FIG. 7

Sails: wet cloth, then dry and iron it. Fix to window the drawing of sails #56/57/58/59/60, then attach cloth. First draw sails by tracing their shapes. Then, with a pencil, trace lines as per drawing. Cover a piece of wood with plastic material. Fix the sails with pins to this piece. Connect the pins with a fine string. Glue the strings with a fine brush and watered-down cement onto the sails (fig. K). Let it dry, then cut out complete sails and attach them. Paint sails's center cross with flat red colour (#56/60).

FIG. 8

Fix masts #42/43/44 in holes on the deck of hull following the angles shown on drawing. Make shrouds twisting two yarns of little rope with watered down white glue to make a plait. (see detail 46). Strain the manoeuvre from the bottom of mast (#44 to point U). Strain on the mainmast shrouds coming from little holes put under chain-wales #31 and fix them in the right point on fig. 8. For other two masts strain shrouds from rings on the deck and fix them in the right points in fig. 8. Now glue some little pieces of ropes #65 horizontally on shrouds of the mainma­st and foremast, around 4mm each from another to sham steps #56 to climb up the top of the mast. At the bottom of steps glue 1 strip 1x1 mm (both sides) #57. Attach sails to yards according to plan #58. Sail #59 to yard #51 Sail #60 to yard #52 Sail #56 to yard #47 Sail #57 to yard #53 Sail #58 to yard #48 Now fix sails and yards to masts. Fix in the middle point the yard #51 to the bowsprit #55, the yard #48 to the mast #44, the yard 47 to the mast #42, the yard #53 to the mast #42, the yard #48 to the mast #43 following the procedure of binding as the detail #61. Manoeuvres: follow the course with right letters in fig. 8 and 9. Put three flags #62/63 and 64 on the top of masts.

FIG. Z

Make the stand for the boat from strip 10x2 forming 4 trapeziums that shall be placed one upon the other and glued to each other two by two following the hatched line (see fig. Z). The figure is in actual size, therefore the realization is easy. Glue and fasten with a small nail the rod No. 3 (8 mm. diameter) to the base of the supports, in the point indicated by the circle.

PINTA

Columbus Caravel

On 12th October 1492 Christopher Columbus, in the service of Spain, set the royal flag on an island of a completely unknown world to Europe.

This extraordinary adventure was due to the strong perseverance of a foreigner haunted by the conviction that the Atlantic Ocean was but a sea, narrow enough to be crossed in a few days in a boat.

Christopher Columbus, son of a Genoan weaver, had been thinking about this project for fifteen years and then spent eight years of his life looking for someone who could accept it.

The report of his triumph lives through two documents of the time: one is the caravel's log-book and the other is the touching biography of Christopher Columbus, written by his son Ferdinando.

Preparations for leaving started in May in Palos, the city of Pinzon and Nino. Infact these two families supplied the enterprise with the two famous caravels: Pinta and Nina. The third was chartered by Juan de la Cosa.

Columbus took the command of his small fleet and at the dawn of August 3rd weighed anchor, leaving South towards the Canary Islands.

Navigation was not at all easy: "Here people cannot stand it any more and complain over the length of the journey" noted Las Casas.

The fleet had been at sea for 34 days and was still sailing, hopelessly, towards an unknown destination. "If the Captain won't decide to sail back home, we'll throw him into the sea and, once back in Spain, we'll tell everybody that he fell overboards accidentally.

Nobody will argue with that", wrote Ferdinando. Around 10p.m. on October 11th Columbus noticed a dim light. Nothing was told to the sailors and they didn't notice anything. Four hours passed. Then around 2a.m. a sailor on the Pinta perceived the coast of an island, lit by the moon.

Columbus was right! After 36 days at sea and a voyage of 2.400 miles, he landed, exactly as he had promised. Even so he had not reached the Indies. Columbus arrived at Watlings Islands in the Bahamas, 9.000 miles away from them.

FIG. 1-2

Prepare joints on tips of parts from 2 to 7, as shown in Fig.2,in this way they'll be easily removed after having applied bulwark planking.

Glue frames from 2 to 11 onto keel 1, be careful to position frames perpendicular to the keel and parallel to one another (except frame 11 which should be slanting).

FIG. 3

Glue parts 12 and 13 onto frames 2 and onto the keel, as shown. They'll be useful while applying planking at stem.

FIG. 4

Apply block 14 flush to stern frame 11. Use a strip to check correct shape of the hull, shape edges of frames at stem and at stern, following hull outline, in this way you'll easily apply planking. Tape ends of parts 12 and 13 at stem, take off comers.

FIG.5

Plank stern board 15 with strips 15, position them as shown in figure.

Note the different directions of planking between frame and stern block.

FIG. 6

Plank quarterdeck 16 with strips 17.

On quarterdeck drill holes for masts. Glue the deck onto the hull (frames from 8 to 11), drill the hole for small mast deeply in part 14 (do not drill through completely).

FIG.7

Cover outsides of frame tips from 2 to 7 with adhesive tape. This will help removing tips later on, since they won't stick to the rest.

Plank hull with strips 18. It is advisable to start from main deck going downwards, and finish planking over main deck line.

Some small nails will help gluing. We suggest use of special tool Amati Pin Pusher (art. 7384), designed to ease nailing strips to frames.

Let the glue dry completely, then sand the hull using thin sandpaper.

Strips for side quarterdeck planking should be shaped following drawings on Table 1, carefully.

For this operation you can use a very thin fret saw blade. Be careful not to spoil strips of planking.

FIG. 8

Prepare rudder 19, gluing together 2 pre-cut mm. 2 pieces. Apply tiller 21. Drill holes to fix rings 73 and 74 on stempost and on rudder. Apply eyebolts with rings onto stem and only one eyebolt, without ring, on rudder. Now glue rudder to stempost using hinges 20. Sling rudder as shown in Figure, using a piece of rope 75.

FIG. 9-10

Use a pair of tweezers to take off frame tips, be careful not to spoil bulwark planking. Sand upper edges of frames.

FIG. 11

Plank upper deck 22 with strips 23. on deck make holes for mast and for anchor rope wells. Glue the deck onto the hull.

FIG. 12-13

Cover quarter deck bulkhead with strips 24.

On deck apply stringers 25, positioning two mm.1x1 strips, one near the other, all along bulwarks inside, apply poppets 26 leaning them on stringers. The last stem poppets should be shorter than the other of about mm.2, in order to allow positioning of board 28 (Fig.13).

Use a flat file to prepare seat to sling anchors on bulwarks.

Following instructions given in Table 1 position strips 27, gluing them on poppets.

Apply upper deck gunwales 29 and 30 leaning them against stempost and flush with poppets 26. In this way gunwales will stick out the hull.

Apply pre-shaped stringers 35 and 36 and cross bars 37 and 38 onto quarterdeck edges. The two side stringers 35 and 36 should stick out the hull as gunwales do.

FIG. 14 -15 -16

Apply wales 31 and 32 along bulwarks. Then glue wales 33, following gunnels towards stem. Check exact positioning following details on lateral view on Table 1.

Now apply vertical fenders 34 (first layer) between gunwales and wales 32 and between wales 32 and wales 31. Now continue applying second layer of strip 34. Now all gunwales, wales and fenders should be on the same level. Apply the third layer of strips 34, all together.

When glue is completely dry shape fenders with sandpaper, as shown in Fig. 16.

Drill holes for cannons and then sand them with thin sandpaper.

For this operation it is advisable to position a cannon on deck and check exact height of barrel. The barrel should be right in the middle of the hole You are going to drill on bulwark.

FIG. 17-18

On main deck gunwales apply decoration arches 39. These parts are made of two wooden pieces of mm.2, joined together, sanded and glued. The decorations cover planking strips, which had been cut before (Fig. 7).

FIG. 19

Apply decoration 40 for the door on covering of quarterdeck bulkhead. Complete the door, add handle 41 and hinges 42. To make handle bend the head of an eyebolt, then insert shank into bulkhead. Prepare windows cutting decorations 44 the right size. Shape nets 43 inside windows, then glue the whole onto bulkhead and add shelves 45. Follow drawings on Table 1 (scale 1:1) to prepare quarterdeck banister. Position the drawing or photocopy of it on a plywood tablet. Apply strips 47 on the drawing on the tablet (two on each side of the banister) holding them firmly with some small pins. Then glue poppets 46, following inclination given in the drawing.

Let the glue dry well, then take off pins from strips 47 and sand base of poppets to obtain correct inclination in respect with quarterdeck. Do the same operation for the other side of the banister and for stern. At stern strips 48 must be glued together to form a wall and poppets should be slightly slanting backwards. Try to mount these parts onto the model, until you'll obtain a correct positioning. Apply gunwales 50 and 51 (pre-cut) and 52 (strip mm. 2x4). Complete inside bulwarks with pieces 49. Glue columns 53 (mm. 3x3) on front side of quarterdeck and then apply handrail 54 (mm. 1x4). At stem drill a 2 mm. hole, to position outriggers 90, which can be applied later on.

FIG. 20-21

Prepare hatchway making beams 55 with strip mm. 2x2. Make lateral frames 56 with strip mm. 1x4, apply the longer ones straight onto beams 55. Assemble the whole, forming a frame. Position hatches 57 (made from strip mm. 1x4) directly on beams 55.

On hatches 57 drill holes for handles. Then position handles which are made of piece 58 and 59 (eyebolts and rings).

Now apply hatchway on the deck following view on Table 1.

FIG. 22

Prepare both gratings 60, following instructions given in figure. Check correct measures on Table 1. Frames 6l are made from a mm. 1x4 strip. Position gratings on main deck and on quarterdeck.

FIG. 23

Make bitts 62 and pin rack (only crossing part) 63 using a mm. 3x3 strip. Shape bitts 62 with a file, as shown in figure, make joints for cross bar 63, which should be fixed in for half its thickness. Correct dimensions can be find in drawing on Table 1. Now apply this part onto main deck as shown in view.

FIG. 24

Make front support 77 for lifeboat, take exact measures from view on Table 1. Then apply this part onto deck. Make holes for eyebolts near hatchway and next to lifeboat support. Insert eyebolt 78 and finish them with rings 79.

Paint lifeboats 76 natural wood, then position it upside down on hatchway and on support 77. Tie it with rope 80 as shown in figure.

DECK FITTINGS AND HULL FINISHING

(See Fig. 2 and 3 on Table 1) Before applying all fittings on decks it is advisable to finish and color the hull completely. At stem, on bulwark, drill holes for anchors' ropes. Glue hawse holes 67 on the outside. Now you can color the hull with a transparent matt varnish. Wales and fenders can be a little bit darker than hull planking. Prepare windlass 64 and then apply it onto the deck. Glue also parts 66 round holes for anchor ropes, on deck.

Wind rope 65 around windlass, insert one end into deck holes and the other end, much longer, into hawse hole on bulwarks. Both ends should be then tied to anchor rings. Position anchors 68 on gunwale, tie them with a piece of thin rope 69, through holes you've made before. Prepare staircases 70, verify dimension on plan. Then apply them on deck. Mount cannons 71, barrel and carriage, and apply them on deck in front openings an bulwark. Position heel 92 on main deck, around hole for mast, do not glue it. In this way you can now glue pump 72 near mast heel.

On decks drill all holes for eyebolts and rings 97-98. Check plans. These rings will be useful for riggings, use few drops of cyanocrylate to fix them firmly.

MASTING (TABLE 2)

Prepare masts following technical plans in scale 1:1. Taper dowels for masts and yards from No. 81 to No. 90. Follow drawings in scale 1:1.

MASTS

Firstly make parts 109-110-111 from a mm. 6x6 strips. Follow figures A-B-C-D-E in detail. Drill holes where yard riggings will run through and in which there will be inserted pivots, in order to fix riggings to masts. Cover main mast 82 with strips 96 mm. 1x3. This will act as reinforcements for lower part of mast. Sand and round edges.

Now on top of main mast apply part 109. Let glue dry well and then position rod 83. On top of part 109 make a hole to fix the rod securely, otherwise you can join rod, part 109 and mast with a little metal pin. Position main mast on deck, check correct inclination and insertion. Glue mast heel onto deck and then glue main mast. Tie and glue top 91 (see Table 1). Follow these same instructions for mizzen mast 85, rod 86 and part 111.

Assemble foremast 84 with its part 110. Now on deck glue mizzen mast with heel 93, and foremast with heel 92.

Apply outrigger 90 at stem, fixing it with steps 94 and 95.

YARDS

Sand larger ends of yards 87 and 88 (2 pieces for each yard) and of spar 89 (2 pieces), so that they join smoothly. Glue parts of yards and spar together and then make bindings (use rope 105). Apply parrels (parts 103 and rope 104) onto yards and onto spars, in order to fix masts. Rope 104 should be long enough to make bindings easily. Apply blocks 99 on yard tops, tie them with rope 104.

BOWSPRIT

Make blocks bindings and then apply bowsprit to the hull securing it to the keel right and to foremast right.

SAILS

Cut printed cloth sails 106 and fold borders inwards, then sew them to the inner side, using thin thread or you can also use cyanocrylate. Reinforce all sail corners by sewing them, you can also apply some small pieces of cloth. See side view on Table 1. Make holes in order to fix sails to yards and apply rope rings 105 on corners.

Lace sails to yards and lateen yards with rope 104, then position the whole onto masts.

RIGGINGS

Figures from 25 to 34 show all riggings. Each number in a square corresponds to a type of rigging:. Consult the list of riggings to check wether each rigging is single or double (left=sx right=dx). In figures 33 and 34 the same numbers indicate where rigging will be tied (number plus letter A) and the beginning point (number).

On lateen yard begin with inner riggings and then make the other riggings.

Fig. 31 shows how to make shrouds using triangular deadeyes 101. Fig. 32 shows how to tie the davit of the main mast halyard.

FLAGS

Cut flags from the given adhesive cloth, use a scalpel. All along line of bending cut protective paper. Take off only half paper film. Position a piece of rope 104 all along bending line, in order to tie flag to the pole. Take off the other part of die paper film and bend flag carefully on itself. Apply flags onto mast poles.

You can finally buy a hard wooden base and two turned columns to show your model.

Now your model is finished. Show it proudly, it is your creation.

Please note that the following points are marked with a on the instruction photographic booklet.

Step 1

Check joints on frames. If necessary, enlarge joints using a file on both sides.

Step 4

Sand frame edges towards bow and stem,

Step 5

Sand edges of bow shim elements.

Step 6

Drill holes on deck (refer to 1:1 scale drawing on Table 1).

Step 7

Apply first planking using basswood strips (18) 1x3 mm.

Step 9

Apply second planking using walnut strips (15) 0,5x3 mm.

Step 10

Round planking using a thin file and sandpaper (refer to 1:1 scale drawing on Table 1)

Step 11

At stem drill a hole for rudder tiller insertion. Use file and sandpaper.

Step 12-13

Remove all frame tips using small tweezers. Smooth frames with sandpaper.

Step 14

Drill holes on deck (refer to 1:1 scale drawing on Table 1).

Step 15

Prepare model support using two pieces of wooden dowels 6 mm. and all laser cut parts.

Step 16

Make seats for anchor ropes running. Use a flat nose file.

Step 22

Position second strip 34, smooth with sandpaper. Apply third strip 34 and smooth again with sandpaper.

Step 23

On bulwark drill holes for cannons and for anchor ropes running.

Step 27

Make joints for rudder tiller insertion. Use a file

Step 40

Round edges of anchor pin in order to insert anchor in its stock easily.

Step 42

Drill running through holes 109-111 and hole 110, then complete these parts